Monday, November 30, 2015

Day Three in NZ: Cape Reinga and Ninety Mile Beach

On the third morning of my New Zealand adventure, I watched the sunrise over the Bay of Islands. Onboard a bus, which was only stopping for a minute to pick up a couple of passengers, I jumped off and ran to the water to get the picture. As fast as I could, I got back on the bus before it took off again! The best way to start a day! For a picture!



Heading north towards Cape Reinga, I found myself thinking once again: “Look at me! Here I am! How did I do this?!”  

I am truly addicted to the beauty of the just-do-it-without-a-plan-traveling. Where is this bus taking me? Where am I sleeping tonight?

I need these things. I choose these risks and I must live with the consequences! I’m just going to do what I’m supposed to do; meet the people I'm supposed to meet. I've traveled all this way but it is the experience that I'm after! This life!

I am addicted to pushing comfort zones and doing the things that scare me so much that just the thought makes me throw up a little: skydiving, flying to foreign countries alone, stand-up comedy, epic bike journeys across the country, moving to places where I don't know anyone, and sharing my writing. I can’t stop. I hate myself for it. I love myself for it.

Anyway, Cape Reinga is considered the northernmost point of New Zealand, but a little Googling, or just looking at a map, will let you know that is not quite accurate. The Maori consider this location to be where the spirits of the dead meet the underworld. This is also the location where the Pacific Ocean, to the east, meets the Tasman Sea, to the west. I found it to be energetically intense. I wanted to be there alone. It was also windy. 






After exploring Cape Reinga, the bus brought me to Ninety Mile Beach. As it turns out, this beach is not even 90 miles long, as the name would seem to suggest. It is more like 55 miles (roughly-ish 90 kilometers). That seems like an error that should've been corrected somewhere along the line.

The bus let some of the passengers attempt sandboarding down the duneshere. Because I am fearful of going face-first down a sand dune at high speeds on a body board, I was not interested in partaking in this activity.  I don’t regret my decision; it’s just not my thing.






After watching the crazies speed down the sand without any serious injuries resulting, the bus drove on the 90 Mile Beach; speeding on the sand, maintaining 90 km/hour. With some simple arithmetic, we can figure out that we drove for about an hour! This beach is a recognized, public highway. This is kind of terrifying and legal. I sat in the front seat so that I could look out the large window. All I could think was, “This would never happen in the US!”

Sometimes, the bus would hit unexpected bumps in the sand and I would go flying out of my seat. When it came time for the bus to exit the beach, the driver informed me that if that sand wasn’t just right, and he needed to slow down for any reason, we would sink and get stuck. He drove in circles a bunch of times testing the sand’s hardness as well as waiting to make sure no other cars would potentially be in our way as we attempted to exit. When all was clear, we sped off the beach through a narrow path.







We made it! Anticlimactic!

The following day, I returned to Auckland. My new-friend, Philip, invited me to have dinner at his parents’ house for the evening. I told them my stories, ate pizza, and drank beer. Just like home.

His father said something to me that evening which made my whole being swell with a sense of achievement: "You've traveled a lot for an American."

Look at me! Seriously! There I was! I didn’t feel alone! And I didn’t feel lost! And I don't think that I was.

To quote one of my favorite authors, dear Vonnegut: “If this isn’t happiness, I don’t know what is.”







Monday, November 23, 2015

New Zealand: Going to a First World Country in the Southern Hemisphere Without a Plan

In the darkness of the early morning, the lights of Auckland came into view as the plane descended. I have no idea what I am going to do when I get off this plane.

The plane lands. Just keep breathing. We disembark. Keep walking. Follow the signs. This is easy.

At Customs, I recognize a girl from the airport in Hawaii. Should I talk to her? I remembered a conversation from a few weeks ago: “Just ask people where you should go. Everyone will help you.”

“Hey,” I said to the girl, “Are you from here?”

I find out that she had been studying in Hawaii and has just finished school so she was moving home.

“Well, I just decided to come here by myself and I have no plan. Where should I go?” I ask.

“Why would you do that?”

“I guess I wanted to see if I could.”

“I don’t know what to tell you," she says, "but good luck.”

The first place mentioned in the Lonely Planet Guide, is the City Centre. Without actually reading about it, and only seeing the name, I decided to ask the woman working at the Visitor Information how I could get there. She sold me a bus ticket and gave me a map.

On the bus from the airport and going into the City Centre, the sun was just rising. 

The sun is rising in New Zealand. 
I did it! I’m in New Zealand! Look at me!

What now? I still don't know what I'll do. Find a coffee shop and wait for the Visitor Centre to open, I guess.

So, I sit there. Drinking coffee and listening to the harmonic tones of the accents that are different than my own.

I discover that the backpackers (hostels are called "backpackers" here) are located on a street a couple blocks away so I go over there, walking past the Sky Tower, reserving a bed, and leaving my pack.

I spend the afternoon walking around the city: through parks, past churches, and exploring the art museum (which offers free tours and is awesome!).

Sky Tower in Auckland
Early the following morning, I found myself on a shuttle. I didn’t even know where this shuttle was taking me other than the general direction of north. One foot in front of the other.

The prior afternoon, I had wandered into a little shop with a sign that read, “Let us help you plan your trip!”

I really didn’t want any set itinerary, so I’m not sure how I was persuaded into buying this. I think the guy at the desk made it sound like it was just a bus pass to get me around: “It’s an on again, off again bus pass and it’ll bring you to places off the beaten path. And you’ll make friends!”

That sounds good enough. I'm in.

“But, you’ll have to catch the shuttle early tomorrow morning,” he says.

So, here I was. On a shuttle with about eight other people who all looked significantly younger than me.


View of the Auckland Skyline as we passed in the shuttle.
Watching the country roll past.
A couple hours into the drive, we stop for coffee. Standing in the little café, I ask the “driver”, Philip, what I could eat.

“What is a good, local New Zealand-type breakfast food?”

“The pie. But you can get pie hee-ya, or you can get pie they-ya, since we’re going to pie-hee-ya.”

I have no idea what he is talking about.

“So, I should get the pie?”

“Well, you can get pie they-ya, or pie-hee-ya”

Kiwis say “here”, like “hee-ya”, and he was trying to make a joke to this American that does not realize the shuttle was going to a place called Paihia (pie-hee-ya).

He thought he was very clever and I had no idea what was going on.

On the way, we stop at a big, 800-year-old tree. I get my picture with it. I liked that just over a week ago, I was hugging a giant redwood in California.

An 800-year-old tree.


The Redwoods are bigger.
At another café, Philip sits down to talk with me. After a bit of small talk, he asked what my plans were for the night.

“Plans? I don’t even know where we’re going right now.”

“Do you want to come to a real Kiwi party?”

“Yes!” (Have I mentioned that I’m a “yes” person?)

And this is how I found myself, on the second day in a country where I didn’t know a soul, where I didn’t have a plan, just about as far from home as I could get, walking through the "bush" with a stranger who I came into my life to show me the way.

I knew this would happen. It always does.

During the walk, which took a few hours, Philip taught me about the trees, plants, and birds. We talked about traveling, synchronicities, and life. We walked through mangroves, over bridges, and to a waterfall on our way to his friend’s house for the “real Kiwi party”.

Philip used to live in Paihia and we were going to his friend's 40th birthday party.

New Zealand Mangroves!

Some waterfall.

A swing at the party.
The Kiwis welcomed me into their home for food and drinks; they were fisherman! They cooked crawfish, which were about the size of lobsters. I was told they use them for bait and I think a teenage boy thought it was embarrassing how delicious I found it to be! But everyone else seemed to enjoy them as well!

And I got to try local oysters! They didn’t serve them with horseradish, but they were still delicious. Local, New Zealand oysters! (New food is one of my favorite things about traveling!)

They were all so welcoming and I never felt like a stranger. I think I was exactly where I was supposed to be.

I think I’m going to be okay hee-ya.

View from the party as the sun was setting.
Kiwi food!
Crawfish.

My plate of new food to try!
New friends for the night.
View for the evening. 

Monday, November 16, 2015

Tribute to an Inspirational Woman


Six years ago today, my grandmother died.

She was and is my inspiration and I never even told her.

I’ve been choreographing this post in my head for several days now. I’ve been sitting in front of my dumb computer for hours typing and deleting. Typing. Deleting. Retyping.

I want to get this right. I need to capture all of the things that made her wonderful. I want you to feel it with me.

I would listen to her in awe and wonder, “How did you possibly have time for all of these adventures in your life?”

Because of her, I knew I needed to live a life full of as many stories as possible; stories worth telling my own pretend, grandchildren.

In 1995, she was diagnosed with breast cancer and, with my grandfather, came from North Carolina to live with us to receive better treatment in Philadelphia.

I was so excited that they were going to be around.

The thing is, she asked me questions. The questions weren’t difficult, but they made me think. She was engaged. She encouraged conversations.

I remember sitting outside on a bench one day while we waited for my mother to register for nursing classes at the community college. She asked me, “Who is your favorite teacher ever and why?”

I thought about it and decided that the teacher I had that school year, for fifth grade, was my favorite. I don’t remember the reasons I gave her. She told me that her favorite was her fifth grade teacher too. I think her name was Ms. Brown. I don’t remember the reasons she gave to back up her answer, but I remember thinking her teacher sounded wonderful by the way she described her even if I can’t remember any of the details. I remember the way her descriptions made me feel and I wanted to experience life through the same kind of eyes.

She seemed to appreciate my company and liked having me around - which goes a long way for a kid. She seemed interested in the things I thought about. She made me feel like I mattered.

Sometimes she would take me to a farmer’s market to pick out fruit, especially if I had never tried it before. She taught me to be interested in trying new food. She taught me to love food.

She was interested in other cultures, especially Native Americans.

She was an only child. She had seven children. 

She taught me how to make whipped cream and shortcake from scratch. She taught me how to prepare fruit so we could keep it in the freezer to enjoy in the winter.

She taught me how to do my laundry.

When the moon was full, she’d bring me to the beach to watch it rise over the ocean.

Sometimes, she would bring me to the ferry just to watch people miss the boat! I’m not even kidding! This was one of our activities! I don’t remember her asking, but I bet she encouraged conversations like, “Where do you think they’re trying to go?”, “I hope they don’t have an emergency. Wouldn’t that be terrible?”, or "Why do you think they left a couple minutes late?"

When I decided I wanted to be an astronomer, she brought me outside to look at the stars.

When I decided I wanted to be a meteorologist, she took me out to watch storms.

When I decided I wanted to be a journalist, I asked her for an interview. Rather than telling me about her own life, she responded by pretending to be an overworked, chain-smoking, child circus star with a funny accent!

Another time she emerged from the bathroom with balloons in her shirt and said she was Dolly Parton!


  
Sometimes, she'd start snowball or whipped cream fights in the house. And anytime we had cake, she’d always attack someone with it! No one was safe - she’d go after guests! Nowhere was safe - she’d go after you in the bathroom!

When she began her cancer treatments, she took the cotton from a pill bottle and stuck it to her face and hair. She came out of the bathroom writhing about the side effects of the medication.

Side effects from medication.

We laughed a lot. She was really funny.

After dinner on holidays, we’d always play board games.

She’d tell me stories about how she met my grandfather: when they were teenagers on a public bus in Philadelphia on a hot, summer day. She said he ran off the bus to get her.

She told me about another time when she was terrified on a small boat at night by the sounds of drum fish in the water around her. She'd make the sounds of the fish: "Bum bum bum bum bum." 

She told me about the time she saw the Northern Lights when she lived in Upstate New York.

She told me about the time when she was camping with her friends and a can of beans exploded on the fire. She said shards of the can were found sticking in a nearby tree but, luckily, no one got hurt.

She told me about the time when she was walking outside in the freezing cold and her nostrils froze together.

She told me about the time she got salmonella, so she wouldn’t let me eat raw cookie dough.

She told me about how they used to live on a farm; about the time that they saved two young cows from being slaughtered; about the time when they slaughtered their chickens for dinner.

She made the best banana cream pie.

She told me why I should never eat veal.

During the summer of 2006, she was in the hospital for something I can't remember. She was sure she was dying and she was scared. I was visiting her when the doctor came in and asked her what was wrong. She said, "I'm dying." And the doctor responded, unsympathetically, "We're all dying." I don't think she thought that was funny, but she didn't die that time. 

She told me how much her heart hurt when her pets died.

She told me about how her father died on Christmas.

I watched her cry when my other grandmother died. They were friends.

I watched her cry when my dad had his heart attack and we didn’t know if he was going to be okay.

I saw her crying when it was my fault. I told her I was sorry, but I felt awkward apologizing because I was a kid. I really meant the apology, but I always wanted to redo it. I was young, I don't think it could have seemed sincere.

My heart aches just thinking that I upset her. I always meant to apologize again for it. For years, I meant to bring it up. I never did. I have to live with that.

When I was 22, I lived down the street from her for the summer. I’d often spend evenings at her house and she would feed me dinner.

This one night, she insisted on walking me home to be safe. It was only about three blocks so we compromised that she would bring me halfway. Here is this 80-something lady walking a young, 20-something home because she was worried about me.

On the walk, I remember how happy she was. She said it was a beautiful night and she was looking at the sky, smiling. When we got to the halfway mark, she stopped and I continued on. I looked back and she was still standing there, gazing up at the sky. I feel like I could see her smiling and appreciating the moment.

She reminds me to slow down and look around.

I saw her about two months before she passed away in September 2009. She was standing in her kitchen making coffee when I walked into her house. She was swollen from the medication. The cancer had returned.

She looked like her bones were causing excruciating pain and it made me hurt for her.

I told her about my most recent visit to Switzerland. She loved to hear about it. I told her that I was living in the mountains. She loved the mountains. I told her that I was growing an herb garden in a sunny window.

I told her that I was sad because I felt isolated in the mountains. She told me that having an herb garden sounded really nice and, whether she meant it or not, this is how she reminded me to just appreciate the adventure of the life I was living. 

This is how she reminds me to see the beautiful things, collect stories, and get out of my head.

She taught me to see the details in moments. She taught me to be interested in what other people have to say.

She taught me to live.


Six years ago today, when my mother called to tell me she was gone, I felt a part of the world come crashing down. I was in Colorado at the time, so I boarded a plane to New Jersey to be with my family the following morning.

It was the day after my grandfather’s birthday. She had waited.


I want you to know about her because she is my inspiration for this: my traveling and adventures. 

I need to live a life full of stories worth talking about, like she did. I often find myself pushing boundaries and comfort zones, because I need to see what will happen. Maybe I'll learn something new and hopefully not die trying. At least not yet.

She taught me that happiness can exist by looking at life like a quest to collect stories worth telling - even if she never said it.

I wish I could tell her about my adventures now. I hope I’m making her proud. I wish I had written this while she was still alive so she could know how much she meant to me.

March 2009
My mother and grandmother visiting me at work - on a boat. June 2007.

Trying some of the beer she helped brew. 1995 or 1996.

My graduation from Rutgers University. May 2008.








Frances "Dolly" King
September 6, 1925 - November 16, 2011

I hope that I can pass on a fraction of the passion for life that she has instilled in me. My pretend children and grandchildren will never know her, but I hope that her fire which exists in me, will continue on in the world for many generations to come.



On a final note:

If you knew her, I think it would be really, really nice if you wanted to share some of your favorite memories of her in the comments below. And if you didn’t know her, maybe you want to share some of your favorite memories of someone that has deeply inspired you.